Nepal14 days

Upper Mustang by Motorcycle — 14 Days

Nepal's forbidden plateau on two wheels: Kathmandu to Lo Manthang, the Kali Gandaki valley, and the Tibet border

Upper Mustang is a high-altitude desert region straddling the Nepal-Tibet border, where settlements remain largely unchanged from the medieval period and few roads exist beyond motorcycle tracks. This 14-day tour covers the journey from Kathmandu through Pokhara and up the Kali Gandaki valley to Lo Manthang, the walled capital at 3,800 meters, with days spent riding through treeless terrain, past monasteries and abandoned fortresses, to the China border and back. The route involves six to seven hours of daily riding on rough roads and sections requiring both bike and foot travel. Riders encounter a landscape dominated by barren ridgelines, adobe-brick villages built in the Tibetan style, and views of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri massifs. Accommodation is in local guest houses; the region has minimal commercial infrastructure. Motorcycle experience is not required, though comfort with sustained riding and physical readiness for thin-air exertion at altitude are essential. The tour operates in spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November), when weather is most stable.

Best time to go: Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November)

Highlights

  • Test-ride motorcycles and visit Kathmandu's temple district — Pashupatinath, Boudhanath, and Bhaktapur — in a single day
  • Six-hour descent from Tatopani to Kagbeni through the Kali Gandaki gorge
  • Muktinath shrine, with its 108 water taps and natural-gas flame
  • Lo Manthang at 3,800 meters: a walled medieval town with functioning monasteries, royal palace, and no vehicular roads beyond its gates
  • Ride to the China border and return through the high plateau, with views of the Himalayas across open terrain
  • Return descent from Gheling to Kagbeni and down to Tatopani, reversing the high-altitude section over two days

Day by day

1Kathmandu Valley by MotorcycleKathmandu valley · Kathmandu · Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple) · Boudhanath Stupa · Pashupatinath Temple · Bhaktapur · Nagarkot · three-star hotel in Kathmandu
A full day riding through the Kathmandu valley, beginning with a motorcycle test drive. The route connects four major sites: Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple), Boudhanath Stupa, Pashupatinath Temple, and the medieval town of Bhaktapur. Late afternoon brings a ride to Nagarkot for sunset views over the valley, then return to Kathmandu. Overnight at a three-star hotel, with a tour briefing before dinner.
2Kathmandu to PokharaKathmandu to Pokhara · Bandipur · Fewa Lake shoreline · Sarangkot
An early departure leads to a five-hour ride from Kathmandu to Pokhara, a lake-side city. The route descends through forested hill country and crosses the Trisuli River, passing through agricultural lowlands. A midway stop is made in Bandipur, a preserved Newari trading town with a main bazaar lined with timber-fronted shops and temples. After arriving in Pokhara, time permits a leisure ride around the Fewa Lake shoreline and up to Sarangkot, a ridge above the city with panoramic views of the Annapurna range. Overnight stay is in a local guest house or hotel. Logistics and any last-minute questions about the week ahead are discussed at dinner.
3Pokhara to Tatopani via the Kali GandakiPokhara to Tatopani via the Kali Gandaki · Tatopani
Breakfast concludes before a six to seven-hour ride toward Tatopani, following the Kali Gandaki River valley into the foothills. Tatopani, a historically significant trading post between Nepal and Tibet, sits on a hot spring that has drawn pilgrims for centuries. The town's population speaks both Nepali and Tibetan. Riders spend the afternoon in the thermal pools, which locals believe have curative properties for skin conditions. Overnight accommodation is in a local lodge.
4Tatopani to KagbeniTatopani to Kagbeni · Kagbeni
After early breakfast, riders head for six to seven hours to Kagbeni, a medieval village in the Kali Gandaki valley. The route climbs steadily through narrowing terrain, offering views of the Annapurna circuit ridge to the east. Kagbeni itself is built in tightly packed mud-brick construction with narrow alleyways and Tibetan-style religious monuments (chhortens) throughout. The village serves as the administrative gateway to Upper Mustang and remains substantially unchanged from earlier centuries. Overnight stay is in a well-maintained guest house.
5Kagbeni to MuktinathKagbeni to Muktinath · Muktinath
A one-hour ride from Kagbeni brings riders to Muktinath, one of the most significant pilgrimage sites in the Himalayan region. The shrine is fed by natural gas vents that produce a continuous flame, and a complex of 108 stone water taps channels local springs, where Hindu and Buddhist pilgrims perform ritual ablutions. The temple is surrounded by open views of the Kali Gandaki gorge and the high ridges beyond. The site sits at the junction of major trekking and trading routes and attracts visitors from across South Asia. Overnight accommodation is in a guest house near the shrine.
6Muktinath to GhamiMuktinath to Ghami · Ghami
A substantial six to seven-hour ride northeastward from Muktinath reaches Ghami (3,450 meters), the third-largest village in the Lo administrative district. The route climbs gradually through open, treeless terrain dotted with barley fields and rows of planted poplars that mark field boundaries. The landscape here transitions from the canyon-bound lower Kali Gandaki to the high plateau beyond. Ghami's houses follow Tibetan architectural conventions, with flat roofs and open-air verandas. The settlement sits within a sparse ecosystem where few trees survive the altitude and wind exposure. Overnight stay is in a local tea house or guest house.
7Ghami to Lo ManthangLo · Lo Manthang
After breakfast, riders climb toward Lo Manthang through a landscape that gradually reveals larger views of the high Himalayas to the south: Nilgiri, Tilicho, Annapurna, and Bhrikuti peaks rise above the horizon. The route crosses the windy pass of Lo (around 3,800 meters), from which the walled city of Lo Manthang becomes visible in a wide valley below. The final descent brings riders into the main settlement, a medieval fortress-town surrounded by a mud-brick wall. The city contains the Royal Palace of the Kingdom of Mustang, several active monasteries, and the central bazaar district. Overnight stay is in a guest house or local lodge.
8Lo Manthang — Exploration DayLo Manthang · Royal Palace complex · Thani Mai and Jampel Lhakhang monasteries
This day is spent in and around Lo Manthang itself, exploring sites that require local knowledge to locate. Riders visit the Royal Palace complex, the Thani Mai and Jampel Lhakhang monasteries, and smaller shrines throughout the walled town. The terrain around Lo Manthang is largely trackless, requiring both riding and walking. The surrounding landscape extends for miles without settlements or vegetation.
9Lo Manthang to the China Border and ReturnLo Manthang · Tibet border · open plateau
A morning departure heads eastward toward the Tibet border, where a formal border trading post sits at the boundary. The route crosses open plateau with views of distant mountains. The border remains significant for cross-border goods trade, particularly salt transported southward from Tibet. After viewing the border post and surrounding trading centers, riders return to Lo Manthang for the night.
10Lo Manthang to GhelingLo Manthang to Gheling · Gheling · Tsarang · Samar
The southbound return begins with a day-long ride from Lo Manthang back down toward lower elevations. En route, riders pass through Tsarang, home to one of the region's largest functioning monasteries. The route includes steep, technical descents into the Tibetan plateau's rolling terrain. Riders also encounter Samar, a high pass crossing. The day ends in or near Gheling (3,500 meters), a substantial settlement on the southern route with significant historical significance as a former administrative center. Accommodation is in a basic guest house south of the main settlement.
11Gheling to KagbeniGheling to Kagbeni · Kagbeni
Riders descend from Gheling to Kagbeni over the course of a full day, retracing the northern approach route but traveling in reverse. The day provides time to revisit sites or sections previously ridden through quickly, or simply to take the descent at a steady pace. Overnight stay is in Kagbeni, where riders spent day four of the tour.
12Kagbeni to TatopaniKagbeni to Tatopani · Tatopani · Kali Gandaki valley
After breakfast, the return ride heads from Kagbeni to Tatopani, a descent through the foothills. The route follows the Kali Gandaki valley downward, often sharing the track with foot traffic and local pilgrim groups traveling between the lower temples and Muktinath above. The afternoon allows time to rest in Tatopani's hot springs again after the extended high-altitude section. Overnight stay is in a well-maintained guest house.
13Tatopani to BandipurTatopani to Bandipur · Bandipur
A seven to eight-hour ride covers the descent from Tatopani to Bandipur, where the Kali Gandaki valley opens into less steep terrain. Bandipur is a preserved Newari trading town with pedestrian-only main bazaar, timber architecture, and numerous inns catering to trekkers and local travelers. The settlement sits at the junction of routes toward Kathmandu and Pokhara. The day marks the end of the high-altitude section; the landscape transitions back to forested hillsides and cultivated lowlands. Overnight stay is in a well-maintained guest house or small resort in Bandipur.
14Bandipur to KathmanduBandipur to Kathmandu · the hotel
The final ride returns to Kathmandu (1,400 meters) from Bandipur via the same route used on day two, covering roughly five hours. As the valley approaches, traffic and settlements increase. Riders arrive back at the hotel where the tour began fourteen days earlier, concluding the trip. The evening includes a final group dinner reflecting on the route, accommodations, food, cultural encounters, and mountain views experienced throughout the two-week tour.

Where you go

Map: Upper Mustang by Motorcycle — 14 Days route
Numbers follow the itinerary order. © Mapbox © OpenStreetMap
  1. 1Kathmandu
  2. 2Pashupatinath Temple
  3. 3Sarangkot
  4. 4Kagbeni
  5. 5Muktinath
  6. 6Kagbeni